Pest Control

How to Get Rid of Rats Naturally: 10 Methods That Work

How to Get Rid of Rats Naturally: 10 Methods That Work

Rats are larger, bolder, and harder to eliminate than mice — a Norway rat can gnaw through lead pipes, concrete, and most plastics. The only reliable solution combines physical exclusion (sealing entry points) with active trapping to remove the existing population. Deterrents alone will not remove established rats.

Key Takeaways

  • Rats can gnaw through wood, aluminium, lead, and thin concrete — only steel, hardware cloth, and mortar reliably stop them
  • Snap traps remain the fastest and most effective removal method — bait with peanut butter or chocolate hazelnut spread
  • A rat can squeeze through a gap the size of a quarter (about ½ inch) — inspection of the entire perimeter is essential
  • Rats are neophobic — they avoid new objects in their environment for days; place traps unset for 2–3 days before activating
  • Rats carry leptospirosis, hantavirus, and salmonella — always wear gloves and a mask when handling traps or cleaning droppings

Quick Answer

Set large snap traps (Victor M326 or equivalent) baited with peanut butter, placed against walls in pairs. Place traps unset for 2–3 days first — rats are suspicious of new objects. Simultaneously seal every entry point larger than ½ inch with steel wool packed tightly and covered with hardware cloth or sheet metal. Store all food in metal containers. Most infestations respond within 2–3 weeks of consistent trapping.

Rats vs Mice — Know What You’re Dealing With

FeatureNorway Rat (most common)Roof RatHouse Mouse
Size7–9 inches body, 350–500g6–8 inches body, 150–250g3–4 inches body, 15–30g
Droppings¾ inch, capsule-shaped½ inch, pointed ends¼ inch, rod-shaped
Where foundBasements, drains, ground burrowsAttics, roof spaces, treesThroughout house
Entry gap½ inch or larger½ inch or larger¼ inch or larger

Signs You Have Rats

  • Droppings: Large (¾ inch), dark, capsule-shaped pellets — more than 40 per day per rat
  • Gnaw marks: Rough, ragged chewing on wood, pipes, cables, and food packaging — much larger marks than mice
  • Burrows: Norway rats dig 2–3 inch diameter burrows around foundations, under decking, and in compost heaps
  • Grease trails: Dark smear marks along walls and baseboards from oily rat fur
  • Sounds: Heavy scurrying, scratching, and gnawing sounds — louder than mice, more deliberate
  • Footprints: In dusty areas, rat prints are 4-toed front feet and 5-toed rear feet, significantly larger than mouse prints

10 Natural Methods to Get Rid of Rats

Method 1: Snap Traps — Most Effective

Large rat snap traps (not mouse traps — rat traps are significantly larger) are the fastest and most humane way to eliminate rats. Use Victor M326 or Tomcat Rat Snap Trap for Norway rats.

Critical placement rules:

  • Place traps against walls — perpendicular to the wall, trigger side facing the wall
  • Pre-bait for 2–3 days unset — rats are neophobic and will avoid new objects. Leave traps baited but not armed; once they’re eating the bait regularly, set them
  • Use peanut butter, chocolate hazelnut spread, or dried fruit as bait — use a tiny amount so the rat must press the trigger
  • Place 6–12 traps simultaneously for an established infestation — rats travel in groups
  • Check traps every 24 hours — dead rats attract flies and other pests quickly

Pet safety: Use a wooden box with a rat-sized opening placed over the trap, or put traps inside a lockable bait station.

Method 2: Seal Every Entry Point

Unlike mice, rats will aggressively enlarge gaps to enter. Sealing is the only permanent solution — without it, new rats will replace any you remove.

  • Pack holes with heavy-gauge steel wool (not fine steel wool — rats chew through fine grades)
  • Cover steel wool with galvanised hardware cloth (½ inch mesh) secured with screws — rats will eventually remove or chew around caulk alone
  • Fill larger gaps with mortar, cement, or sheet metal — not expanding foam (rats chew through it)
  • Install door sweeps on all exterior doors — Norway rats can squeeze under ¾ inch gaps
  • Screen all vents with ½ inch hardware cloth

Method 3: Remove All Food and Water Sources

Rats need 30ml of water and 30g of food daily. Eliminating access forces them toward traps as the only food source.

  • Store all food — including pet food and bird seed — in metal containers with locking lids
  • Remove bird feeders during active infestations — spilled seed on the ground is a major rat attractant
  • Fix all dripping outdoor taps and garden water sources
  • Secure compost bins — use a rodent-proof compost bin or stop adding food scraps temporarily
  • Pick up fallen fruit from trees immediately

Method 4: Eliminate Burrows and Shelter

Norway rats burrow under foundations, sheds, and dense ground cover. Removing shelter forces rats into the open where traps are more effective.

  • Fill active burrows with soil, then compact and monitor for re-digging
  • Remove dense ground cover and debris piles within 100 feet of the building
  • Store firewood on raised racks at least 18 inches off the ground and away from the building
  • Trim tree branches that overhang the roof — roof rats use them as access routes

Method 5: Peppermint Oil and Essential Oil Deterrents

The strong menthol in peppermint oil irritates rats’ sensitive nasal passages. Saturate cotton balls with undiluted peppermint oil and place in areas of activity. Replace every 5–7 days.

Honest assessment: Peppermint oil may deter rats from exploring new areas but will not remove an established population. Use alongside trapping and exclusion, not instead of them. Evidence for effectiveness is largely anecdotal (per university extension guidance on rodent deterrents)

Method 6: Ammonia Solution

Ammonia mimics the smell of predator urine and deters rats when applied near entry points and burrow entrances. Mix 2 cups of ammonia in 200ml of water and place in small containers near known rat areas.

⚠ Safety: Ammonia is toxic to cats and dogs. Only use in areas inaccessible to pets. Never use indoors in enclosed spaces — the fumes are harmful.

Method 7: Natural Predators

Barn owls, hawks, and outdoor cats are effective natural predators. Install an owl nest box on a post in the garden — a breeding pair can consume 1,000+ rodents per year (per wildlife biologists) Even the scent of a cat significantly reduces rat activity in that area.

Method 8: Castor Oil Around Burrows

Undiluted castor oil poured into and around burrow entrances makes the area highly unpleasant for rats. Combine with backfilling the burrow with compacted soil. Reapply after heavy rain.

Method 9: Live-Catch Traps

Large live-catch cage traps humanely capture rats without killing. Use peanut butter or chocolate as bait. Release at least 2 miles away — rats have strong homing instincts and will return if released closer. Check traps every 8–12 hours to prevent stress and dehydration. Always wear gloves when handling.

Method 10: Ultrasonic Repellers

Ultrasonic devices emit high-frequency sound waves claimed to repel rats. Effectiveness is inconsistent in published research — rats often habituate within days to weeks (per University of Minnesota Extension) If used, move devices regularly and combine with physical exclusion and trapping for any meaningful effect.

What Not to Do

  • Don’t use rodenticide (poison) if you have pets or wildlife nearby — secondary poisoning kills cats, dogs, hawks, and owls that eat poisoned rats
  • Don’t seal entry points before trapping is complete — trap first to remove the population, then seal
  • Don’t use glue boards — they cause prolonged suffering and are widely considered inhumane
  • Don’t skip the pre-baiting step — rats that avoid sprung traps become trap-shy and much harder to catch
  • Don’t handle rats or droppings without gloves and a mask — rats carry serious zoonotic diseases

When to Call a Professional

Call a licensed pest control operator if catches are not decreasing after 2 weeks of consistent trapping, if you find evidence of rats in wall voids, roof space, or sewers, if the infestation involves a business premises (legal obligation in many regions), or if anyone in the household is immunocompromised.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most effective natural rat repellent?

Steel wool and hardware cloth packed into entry points is the most effective repellent because it physically prevents entry. For scent deterrents, peppermint oil and ammonia are most commonly used but have limited evidence for established infestations. Snap traps remain the most effective tool for active removal.

How do I know if I have rats or mice?

Rat droppings are ¾ inch long and capsule-shaped — much larger than mouse droppings (¼ inch). Rat gnaw marks are rough and large. Norway rats burrow into the ground while mice rarely do. Rats also produce a strong, ammonia-like smell in infested areas.

How quickly can a rat infestation grow?

A pair of Norway rats can theoretically produce hundreds of offspring in a year if conditions are ideal — they breed year-round indoors. In practice, a small infestation of 4–5 rats can grow to 20–30 within 2–3 months if left untreated. Act immediately at the first signs.

What diseases can rats carry?

Rats can carry leptospirosis (spread through urine contact — can cause kidney and liver failure), hantavirus (spread through droppings and urine — rare but serious), salmonella, and rat-bite fever. Always wear gloves, a mask, and eye protection when cleaning up after rats. Ventilate the area before cleaning droppings.

Does peppermint oil get rid of rats?

Peppermint oil may deter rats from exploring new areas but will not remove an established population. It has no lethal effect and limited repellent evidence for rats that are already nesting. Use it as a supplementary layer alongside exclusion and trapping.

What is the best bait for rat traps?

Peanut butter is the most consistently effective bait — its smell carries far and rats must press the trigger to lick it. Chocolate hazelnut spread, dried fruit, and nesting material (cotton wool, string) also work well. Use a very small amount — enough to require contact with the trigger but not enough to be removed without activating it.

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