How to Get Rid of Coyotes in Your Neighborhood: 10 Safe & Proven Methods

Coyote sightings in suburban and urban neighborhoods have increased significantly over the past two decades as coyotes adapt to human environments. While coyotes rarely pose a direct threat to humans, they do prey on small pets and a habituated coyote that loses its fear of people can become a genuine safety concern. This guide covers 10 proven strategies to deter coyotes from your property and neighborhood safely and humanely.

Key Takeaways

• Never feed coyotes, intentionally or unintentionally — a fed coyote quickly becomes a habituated coyote
• Hazing (active deterrence) is the most effective and responsible method for habituated coyotes
• Small pets should not be left outdoors unsupervised, especially at dawn and dusk
• Coyote-proof fencing requires a height of at least 6 feet plus a coyote roller or outward overhang
• Relocating or killing coyotes is almost never a lasting solution — territorial vacancies are filled by new coyotes within weeks

Quick Answer

Remove all food attractants (unsecured trash, outdoor pet food, fallen fruit, bird feeders at accessible height). Install motion-activated lights and sprinklers at property entry points. When you see a coyote, haze it immediately — make yourself large, shout, throw objects near it (not at it), and never run. Keep small pets indoors at dusk and dawn.

Why Coyotes Come Into Neighborhoods

Coyotes are highly adaptable omnivores. In suburban environments they are attracted by reliable, easy food sources: unsecured garbage, outdoor pet food, fallen fruit, bird feeder spillage, small pets, and rodent populations. Once a coyote learns a neighborhood provides reliable food, it establishes a regular patrol route and teaches the same routes to offspring. This is why removing food sources is the foundation of any effective deterrent strategy.

10 Methods to Deter Coyotes

Method 1: Remove All Food Attractants

• Use wildlife-proof bins with locking lids; store bins in a locked garage or shed until collection
• Never leave pet food outdoors, even briefly — coyotes patrol at unpredictable times
• Pick up fallen fruit from trees daily
• Use elevated bird feeders with baffles to prevent spillage reaching ground level
• Harvest garden vegetables promptly — overripe fruit and vegetables are an attractant

Method 2: Haze Every Coyote You See (Most Important Behavioural Method)

Hazing means making any coyote you encounter feel unwelcome and afraid of humans. This is the most important long-term deterrent because it prevents individual animals from losing their natural wariness.

How to haze:

• Stand tall, wave your arms above your head, and make yourself look as large as possible
• Shout loudly: “Go away! Get out of here!”
• If the coyote doesn’t move, throw objects near it (not at it) — sticks, stones, or a hose
• Use an air horn, whistle, or bang pots — loud noise reinforces the threat
• Never run — this triggers a chase response
• Continue until the coyote leaves; don’t stop early

Method 3: Coyote-Proof Fencing

Standard 6-foot fencing is not coyote-proof — coyotes can scale it or dig under it. A coyote-proof fence requires:

• At least 6 feet tall, ideally 8 feet
• A coyote roller (spinning rod along the top) or outward-angled overhang that prevents gripping and climbing
• A buried skirt: hardware cloth buried 12 inches deep and bent outward to prevent digging under

Method 4: Motion-Activated Lights and Sprinklers

Coyotes are cautious and prefer predictable, undisturbed routes. Motion-activated flood lights and sprinklers at property entry points disrupt their patrol behaviour. Unlike static lights, motion-triggered devices maintain effectiveness longer as they cannot be habituated to as predictable patterns. Position at gate entries, along fence lines, and near outbuildings.

Method 5: Guard Animals

A large dog — particularly livestock guardian breeds (Great Pyrenees, Kangal, Anatolian Shepherd) — is one of the most effective coyote deterrents for rural and semi-rural properties. Even the scent of a large dog in a suburban yard significantly reduces coyote confidence. Donkeys and llamas are also used effectively to protect livestock from coyotes in agricultural settings.

Method 6: Coyote Repellent Sprays

Commercial coyote repellents using capsaicin, putrescent egg solids, or predator urine (mountain lion, wolf) applied around the property perimeter deter coyotes from approaching the treated zone. Reapply every 2–3 weeks and after rain. Rotate products seasonally to prevent habituation. Best used as a supplementary layer alongside food source removal and hazing.

Method 7: Remove Shelter and Cover

Coyotes use dense vegetation, brush piles, woodpiles, and spaces under decking as shelter and denning sites. Removing these from around your property reduces the confidence coyotes have to operate nearby:

• Trim ground-level shrubs to remove low-cover dens
• Remove brush and debris piles
• Seal gaps under decking and outbuildings — the same exclusion also keeps out raccoons and skunks, which use the same spaces

Method 8: Supervise Small Pets Outdoors

Cats and small dogs are at genuine risk in areas with coyote activity, particularly at dawn and dusk when coyotes are most active. Never leave small pets outdoors unsupervised at night. When walking small dogs in areas with coyote activity, keep them on a short leash — retractable leads do not provide adequate control in a sudden encounter.

Method 9: Coordinate with Neighbours

Individual deterrence has limited impact if neighbours are providing food sources or failing to haze coyotes. Coyote management works best as a community effort. Share information about sightings, coordinate food source removal, and agree on a consistent hazing approach across the neighbourhood. Many municipalities have coyote management programmes — contact your local wildlife authority for resources.

Method 10: Contact Animal Control for Dangerous Animals

Contact animal control or your local wildlife authority immediately if: a coyote approaches humans without provocation, a coyote has attacked or chased a person, a coyote is active in daylight and disoriented (possible rabies), or hazing is not causing the animal to retreat. Do not attempt to handle or trap a coyote without professional guidance.

What Not to Do

• Never feed coyotes — intentionally or unintentionally; a fed coyote loses fear of humans permanently
• Don’t run from a coyote — this triggers a pursuit instinct; face it, make yourself big, and haze
• Don’t rely on relocation or lethal control — territorial vacancies are filled by new coyotes within weeks; it is not a lasting solution
• Don’t leave cat doors open overnight — coyotes have entered homes through cat flaps to prey on indoor cats

Frequently Asked Questions